When it comes to hair coloring, understanding the differences between various developers is essential for achieving the desired look while maintaining hair health. One of the most common questions amongst both amateur and professional hair colorists is: “Is 20 or 30 volume developer stronger?” This seemingly simple query unveils a myriad of factors to consider, from the chemical composition of developers to the specific hair treatment being applied.
In this article, we’ll discuss the roles of 20 and 30 volume developers in the hair coloring process, their strength, and their best applications.
Understanding Hair Developer: What Is It?
Before diving into the specifics of 20 and 30 volume developers, it’s crucial to comprehend what hair developer is and how it functions. A developer, or oxidizing agent, is mixed with hair dye to enhance its effectiveness.
Developers come in various volumes, indicating the concentration of hydrogen peroxide they contain. This concentration impacts how light or dark the resulting hair color will be. The primary volumes used in hair coloring include:
- 10 Volume: Gentle and primarily used for deposit-only colors.
- 20 Volume: Commonly used for gray coverage and lifting up to two shades.
- 30 Volume: Used when a more significant lift is desired, lifting up to three shades.
- 40 Volume: For maximum lift, often used in professional settings for dramatic changes.
Understanding these volumes is essential, as each serves a unique purpose depending on the desired outcome of hair coloring or lightening.
Volume Developers: The Difference Between 20 and 30
The main difference between 20 and 30 volume developers lies in their lifting power and overall strength.
20 Volume Developer
20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, making it a popular choice for those seeking a balanced approach to hair coloring. Here are the primary characteristics:
Strength and Functionality
- Lifting Capacity: 20 volume can lift hair color by up to two shades. It is ideal for those with darker hair color who want a subtle change or enhancement.
- Gray Coverage: This developer is excellent for covering gray hair, providing a natural look and ensuring that the color blends seamlessly.
- Hair Health: Using a lower volume developer, such as 20, typically inflicts less damage on the hair, making it suitable for those who prioritize hair health.
- Usage: Best paired with semi-permanent or permanent hair color for optimal results.
When to Use 20 Volume Developer
- When you want to cover gray hair effectively.
- If your hair has existing color and you only wish to refresh or deepen it.
- For individuals with damaged or fragile hair who need a gentler option.
30 Volume Developer
30 volume developer has a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide at 9% and is more powerful than its 20 volume counterpart, designed for significant lifting.
Strength and Functionality
- Lifting Capacity: 30 volume can lift hair color by up to three shades, making it ideal for individuals aiming for a more dramatic transformation.
- Persistent Pigmentation: It works effectively with hair dyes formulated for maximum lift, producing vibrant results that last longer.
- Risk of Damage: Due to its aggressive lifting capacity, it can cause more damage than 20 volume, particularly in fine or over-processed hair.
- Usage: Typically used with lighteners or high-lift hair colors and not recommended for gray coverage as it may not offer the best results.
When to Use 30 Volume Developer
- When attempting to achieve significant color lifts in a single application.
- For individuals looking to lighten their hair dramatically, whether going from dark to light shades.
- In conjunction with professional-grade bleaching products designed for maximum lift.
Strength Comparison: 20 vs. 30 Volume Developer
To determine which developer is “stronger,” one must take into account various factors such as lifting capability, hair condition, and desired outcomes. Below is a comparison table for clarity.
| Feature | 20 Volume Developer | 30 Volume Developer |
|---|---|---|
| Hydrogen Peroxide Concentration | 6% | 9% |
| Maximum Lift | Up to 2 shades | Up to 3 shades |
| Best For | Gray coverage, tone refresh | Significant lifting, dramatic color change |
| Risk of Damage | Lower risk | Higher risk |
From this comparison, it is evident that 30 volume developer is indeed stronger in terms of lifting capacity and hydrogen peroxide concentration. However, whether one should choose it over 20 volume depends on the specific hair treatment being performed.
Factors to Consider When Choosing Between 20 and 30 Volume Developer
The decision between using 20 or 30 volume developer is not merely about strength; several factors come into play, including:
Hair Type
- Fine or Fragile Hair: Those with fine or damaged hair should opt for 20 volume to minimize further damage.
- Thick Hair: Thicker hair may be able to tolerate 30 volume better without significant damage.
Desired Shades
- Subtle Changes: If you are seeking subtle changes or enhancements, 20 volume is the preferred choice.
- Dramatic Change: For a more dramatic transformation or significant lift, go with 30 volume.
Previous Treatments
- If your hair has been previously dyed or treated, evaluate the health of your hair before deciding on either developer. Over-processing can lead to breakage.
Aftercare and Maintenance
Regardless of the developer used, proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining healthy hair.
Suggested Aftercare Practices
- Moisturizing Treatments: Regularly use deep conditioning treatments to restore moisture to chemically treated hair.
- Avoid Heat Styling: Limit the use of heat styling tools in the days following the coloring process. If unavoidable, use a heat protectant.
- Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Utilize sulfate-free products to prevent color stripping and maintain vibrancy.
Conclusion: Making an Informed Decision
In summary, when choosing between 20 and 30 volume developers, it’s essential to weigh the desired outcome against the health of your hair. While 30 volume developer is stronger in lifting capacity, 20 volume developer provides a gentler approach with ample effectiveness for certain applications.
Always consider your hair type, the desired level of lift, and past treatments before making a choice. Seeking advice from a professional stylist can also help tailor your decision to your specific needs. By making an informed choice, you can achieve beautiful, vibrant hair without compromising its health. Ultimately, knowing the answer to the question of whether 20 or 30 volume developer is stronger is just one part of the journey in hair care and color. Making the right choice empowers you to express yourself uniquely, with confidence.
What is the difference between 20 and 30 volume developer?
The primary difference between 20 and 30 volume developer lies in the amount of hydrogen peroxide they contain, which determines their lifting ability. A 20 volume developer contains approximately 6% hydrogen peroxide, while a 30 volume developer contains around 9% hydrogen peroxide. This increased concentration in the 30 volume developer allows it to lift hair color more effectively and is often used for more significant color changes.
When choosing between the two, it’s important to consider the desired outcome. If you’re looking for subtle lifting or touch-ups, 20 volume is usually sufficient. However, if you are aiming for a more dramatic change, such as going several shades lighter or applying a high-lift color, then 30 volume may be the better option.
When should I use 20 volume developer?
20 volume developer is commonly used for all-over hair color applications, particularly when the goal is to achieve a shade that is one to two levels lighter than the natural hair color. It is also ideal for gray coverage, as it provides enough lift to effectively neutralize gray hairs while maintaining the hair’s overall integrity.
Additionally, 20 volume developer is suitable for hair that has been previously colored or damaged, as it is gentler than its 30 volume counterpart. This helps in minimizing excessive damage and ensures that the health of the hair is maintained during the coloring process.
When is it appropriate to use 30 volume developer?
30 volume developer is best used when you are looking for a more significant lift, typically two to three levels lighter than your current hair color. It is often recommended for high-lift dye applications and for lightening hair that is naturally dark or resistant to color. It’s ideal for those who wish to achieve blonde tones or vibrant fashion colors.
However, due to its stronger nature, it can be quite damaging to the hair if not used properly. It’s essential to assess the hair’s health before using 30 volume developer to prevent over-processing. Always consider using a deep conditioner post-treatment to help restore moisture and strength to the hair.
Can I mix 20 and 30 volume developers together?
Mixing 20 and 30 volume developers is not recommended, as it can lead to unpredictable results. Each developer has its specific formulation and intended use, and combining them can dilute their effectiveness or alter the chemical reaction needed for the hair color to process correctly.
If you are unsure about which volume to use, it’s better to stick to one volume developer based on your desired result. Consulting a professional stylist can also help you determine the right choice for your particular hair type and color goal.
Is higher volume developer always better?
While a higher volume developer, such as 30 volume, might provide more lift, it is not always the better choice. The effectiveness of a developer also depends on the condition of your hair, the color you’re starting with, and the result you want to achieve. Using a higher volume developer on damaged or fine hair can lead to significant breakage and unwanted results.
It’s essential to choose the developer that suits your hair type and the color process you’re using. For healthier hair and more controlled results, especially if you are a beginner, starting with a 20 volume developer may yield more favorable results without compromising hair health.
What role does hair type play in choosing developer strength?
Hair type is crucial when determining which developer strength to use. For example, coarse hair tends to be more resistant to color, so a higher volume developer like 30 volume may be needed to achieve the desired lift. On the other hand, fine or chemically processed hair is often more susceptible to damage, making a 20 volume developer a safer and more effective choice in these cases.
Understanding your hair’s porosity is also important. Hair that is highly porous absorbs color and lightener quickly, which may necessitate a lower volume developer to avoid over-processing. Regular evaluations of your hair’s health and the effects of previous coloring treatments can guide you in making the most beneficial choice for your coloring needs.